How to prepare your patterns

Here's a checklist to help you prepare your pattern once it's all assembled. Follow it step-by-step to apply each correction in the right order.

1-Sizes
Check the body measurement chart. When you choose a size, find the measurement that is closest to yours. Sometimes your measurement is not exactly the same as the chart. In this case, choosing the size will depend on the garment fit. On a loose fitted garment, you can easily go with the largest size.  On the other hand, to keep a jersey dress, top or skirt closely fitted, you should choose the smallest size. With any other fitted garment, try the larger size so you can remove the excess as you are sewing, namely by sewing larger seam allowances in the side seams. If you are not comfortable with this technique, it is possible to grade the pattern in between sizes (see entry no.3).

Tips to make your own jeans

To make its own jeans is somewhat of an ambitious project but if you want to improve your skills, you must up the game! Pretty much everybody wear jeans so why not try this out? Not only you'll be able to adjust the pattern to get the perfect fit but you will also have full control on the design and stitching details.

To make its own jeans is also an ethical choice! Globally, the jeans industry is not so great. Everyday, employees working in jeans factory are in contact with many chemicals (like the one used to wash the denims) which are compromising their health and the environment. Ethically made jeans can be very expensive and hard to find so making your own jeans equals perfect solution!

We hope you like this new tutorial to help you organize your DIY jeans project. We even have this cool template that you can use here.

Pictures by Anya Tsinko (www.anna-zoe.net) wearing her handmade skinny high waist jeans (TR803).

Basic pants pattern corrections

Today, we target three areas where pants pattern correction are most likely needed. We'll focus on the upper part to achieve a perfect fit. Have your pants pattern ready, adjusted at the right size, and extra sheets of paper.

Seat adjustment: the back crotch length is not adequate. A full seat adjustment is needed when pants back waist tends to drop, because the length is not long enough. In contrast, a flat seat adjustment will fix the excess created below the buttock when the crotch is too long.

How to add sizes to a graded pattern

If you need to add more sizes to a pattern, follow these easy steps to make them magically appear! This technique is perfect if you bought the wrong size or even to enlarge or narrow down certain areas of a pattern. You can also use this technique to adapt a pattern for children or plus sizes. However, it is recommended to test the pattern on a muslin afterwards!

Full seat adjustments

Today I will show you an easy and practical pattern correction to increase the back crotch length. This correction is essential as a trouser that drops a lot at the back can be very annoying and unaesthetic. As a matter of fact, this is the most frequent problem I have noticed on people, including myself. Let's put an end to this!

Bust cup adjustment on knit tops

Knit garments have the advantage of moulding easily on the body. This makes its fit is much easier than a garment made of non-stretch fabric. Nevertheless, a knit top made too small at the bust will not fit right and can deform the armholes or necklines. Our patterns are adjusted according to a B cup and we highly recommend that you adjust your patterns if you are a C or D cup. If you are unsure about your bust cup, click here to measure it.
 

The concept of balance

Balance is one of the fundamentals of pattern cutting. Understanding its concept will not only help you to adjust your patterns but to also understand the impact these amendments have on a garment. This concept is fairly easy to grasp... so let's see this without waiting!
 

How to adjust a sleeve width

Show some love for chubby and skinny arms! In this article, I will show you how to adjust a sleeve pattern to fit really any arm size. Plus this manipulation won't affect the bodice that the sleeve is attached to... because bust and arms are two different things, right?