Show some love for chubby and skinny arms! In this article, I will show you how to adjust a sleeve pattern to fit really any arm size. Plus this manipulation won't affect the bodice that the sleeve is attached to... because bust and arms are two different things, right?
You'll notice that the sleeve head will change - do not try to correct this part. It is normal and will not affect the original look of the garment. If you try to readjust the sleeve head after this manipulation, the sleeve will not fit into the armhole.
Tools required
- A sleeve pattern
- Scissors (for paper, not the fabric ones!)
- A pencil
- A ruler and square ruler
- Adhesive tape
- An extra sheet of paper
There are several ways to manipulate a pattern but today we will use a technique that roughly consists of cutting a pattern at certain places to then slide and rotate the parts. Ensure that the seam lines are visible on your pattern.
Prepare the pattern
Draw a line about 5cm (2") below the biceps level. Ensure that the seam lines on your pattern are visible - we will need them. Always have your seam lines when adjusting a pattern! 
Divide this line in two and square up, all the way to the top of the sleeve head.
Using the seam lines, draw a straight line from an underarm corner to the other.
Cut through the first line, below the biceps.
Set the top part aside and stick the extra sheet of paper to the bottom part, along the line you cut previously (not in the hem).
Take the top part of the sleeve and cut through the squared up line.
Cut through the underarm lines, going from centre to the corner. Do not cut in the seam allowances.
Clip the seam allowances near the underarm corners. Doing so will create "hinges" and allow you to rotate the pieces.
On the sheet of paper, square up a line again, in the middle of the sleeve.
Increase the sleeve width
Put the top and bottom parts of sleeve together, the top parts above the sheet of paper. Spread both top parts apart, evenly from the centre line, squared up on the sheet.
A gap is created in the sleeve head. To close this gap, rotate down the sleeve head parts, using the underarm corners as hinges. Rotate until the sleeve head is reaching the centre line.
Repeat on the other side.
Decrease the sleeve width
Put the top and bottom parts of sleeve together, the top parts above the
sheet of paper. Overlap both top parts evenly from the centre
line, squared up on the sheet.
Rotate up the
sleeve head parts, using the underarm corners as hinges. Rotate until
the sleeve head is reaching the centre line.
Tape all the parts together with the sheet below. Cut the excess of paper around the sleeve head and keep the scraps of paper.
Correct the underarm seams
Tape a small paper scrap below the pattern, near the underarm corners. Redraw the underarm seam line by blending the top and bottom parts. With a seam gauge, adjust the seam allowance by tracing a parallel line to the new seam line.
Cut the excess of paper around the underarm.
Tape another small scrap of paper on the other side of the sleeve.
Fold the sleeve in two and pin the sides together.
Cut the excess of paper using the other side as a guide, in order to to create the same underarm curve on both sides.
Unfold and the sleeve is ready! It surely look a little bit "butchered" but it is still usable. To make it flat again, iron the sleeve at a low temperature, without steam. Protect your iron from the adhesive tape by covering the pattern with a piece of cotton cloth.
A pattern cutter's tip!
Feel free to recopy this sleeve but do not get rid of the altered one so you can keep track on your pattern amendments.
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