Basic pants pattern corrections

Today, we target three areas where pants pattern correction are most likely needed. We'll focus on the upper part to achieve a perfect fit. Have your pants pattern ready, adjusted at the right size, and extra sheets of paper.

Seat adjustment: the back crotch length is not adequate. A full seat adjustment is needed when pants back waist tends to drop, because the length is not long enough. In contrast, a flat seat adjustment will fix the excess created below the buttock when the crotch is too long.

1- Full seat: Slash the pattern along the hip line. Then, spread the top part toward the top to lengthen the crotch. Use the side seam as a pivot and fill in the gap by taping some paper below the pattern. Reshape the crotch and side seam as needed.

2- Flat seat: Slash the pattern along the hip line. Then, overlap the top part toward the bottom to shorten the crotch line. Use the side seam as a pivot and when done, tape the two parts together. Reshape the crotch and side seam if needed.

Crotch extension adjustments: the crotch extension length is not adequate. Stronger inner tights will require the extension to be longer to correct the stress created toward the crotch. Slim inner tights are adjusted by shortening the extension thus removing the excess of fabric around this area.

3- Full inner tight: on front and back panels, tape some paper pieces along the upper inseam, above the knee to the crotch. Then, redraw the inseam and crotch by shifting the crotch/inseam point toward the outside. Cut the excess of paper.

4- Flat inner tight: on the front and back panels, redraw the inseam and crotch by shifting the crotch/inseam point toward the inside. Cut the excess of paper around the new outlines.

 

Pubic adjustments: the crotch curve is not adequate. The curve on the pattern must match with the curve on the body. Stress is created around the front crotch area when the curve is not scooped enough. In contrast, the curve must be filled if the crotch is frowning.

 

5- Full pubis: Scoop the front crotch from below the hip level. Use small measurements! Then, cut the excess of paper around the new outlines.

6- Flat pubis: Tape some piece of paper below the pattern, in the crotch area, below the hip level. Then, fill in the curve slightly. Cut the excess of paper.